On your Marks

It’s press day time again – the biannual month where all the brands, from River Island to Ralph Lauren, present their next season collections to the press.  So, just when I have finally succumbed to a coat and scarf, I am now spending my days looking at next Spring’s sunglasses, swimsuits and tiny shorts.  Such is the bizarre nature of the fashion industry.

Most press days tend to fall on a Wednesday or Thursday, which means there can be up to 20 different brands showing in one day, all at different venues across London.  Clearly you have to be selective.  Yesterday I managed only a handful, which ranged from Jaeger’s new offerings shown at the gorgeous Somerset House to Marks and Spencer’s at One Marylebone.  I also popped by Flax PR and Reiss who each presented lovely garments for next spring (vintage clothing and homeware by Cabbages & Roses from the former, and feather prints, pistachio green and minimal white suiting from the later).

The one that really caught my eye yesterday however was Marks & Spencer.  I have a huge affinity for the store.  I fondly remember buying their prawn and mayonnaise sandwiches as a teenage treat on a busy Saturday shopping with my friends.  Equally, my gran, who I love dearly, would give us a voucher for the store every year as our birthday gift.  Whilst I possibly would have preferred one for Miss Selfridge or Next at the time, that paper voucher (this was before the current card vouchers) was carefully spent and much deliberated upon.

So to yesterday’s press day, which I think was one of the best I have seen from the brand.  Not only was the venue stunning but the clothes were organised into clearly defined (and very photogenic) trend groups, which ranged from the impactful White Out to the pastel Pretty Things.  Other trends included Worldwide (prints and tribal influences), Paint Box (bold brights) and 90s Luxe (oversized layers of Celine inspired minimalism).  So those are the themes that M&S is predicting for next season. I loved it and I really hope that the collection is as well received by the consumer next February as it was by the press this week.  Check out the pictures below and let me know your thoughts…

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Trend 1 at Marks & Spencer SS14 Press Day – White Out

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Trend 2 at Marks & Spencer – Worldwide (read prints and tribal) – I love this bird print bomber!

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Trend 3 at Marks & Spencer – Pretty things

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I love this white lace midi dress and the sheer panelled pencil skirt

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M&S’s take on the Victoria Beckham oversized drop-waist dress

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Bold colours dominate Trend 4 – Paintbox. The pink leather T-shirt is a stand-out piece for me.

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Trend 5 – 90s Luxe is a key theme across lots of brands for SS14

The clothes seen above will not be available until next Spring.  This is only a preview to give you a taste of what is to come. To shop the current collection, including the fabulous Best of British range, go to www.marksandspencer.com

Only the Brave

On Friday I had the privilege of meeting and interviewing (albeit succinctly) Lady Gaga’s talented ex-stylist Nicola Formichetti – he of the controversial meat dress and armadillo shoe fame.  Fresh from a week of promo that included the Diesel Tribute launch party in New York and an event in Japan, it’s fair to say that he was suffering from both jet-lag & fatigue.  However, despite partying the previous eve at the London launch at Hoxton Gallery, he still managed to exude warmth, charm and a near endless enthusiasm for fashion.

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This month sees the launch of his first collection as Creative Director at Diesel. With his Italian-Japanese heritage, love of street-style and propensity for controversy this is a fine fit for the brand.  And with his legion of loyal Twitter fans, Formichetti brings a wealth of new customers to the label that once ruled the denim world.  This first collection made up of 22 pieces, all referenced from Diesel’s previously untapped 35-year archive.  Naturally, aside from some printed tees denim rules, with the stylist-turned-designer applying studding and biker badges to sleeveless jackets, high tops and shirts.

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The Diesel Tribute sleeveless jacket, shorts and tote – Formichetti’s favourite piece in the collection

When I asked about his favourite piece Nicola championed the tote bag. ‘I took the idea from the back of the vest (sleeveless jacket) and replicated it onto the bag so it looks like you’re carrying a jacket. It’s cool. When you see a tote it’s usually a cute pretty thing, very girly, but this is quite tough. It’s unisex, boys can wear it and girls can wear it.’ Indeed the collection is far from girly, channelling more of a rebellious biker chick aesthetic, a theme that is even more evident in the ad campaign, which features self-sourced heavily tattooed and pierced models.

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A few of the campaign images, shot by Nick Knight, and featuring a selection of models that ‘represent the fearless Diesel spirit’

Describing the difference between Diesel and his previous appointment as creative director at fashion house Mugler, he says ‘At Mugler we had two head designers that had a much more important role. With Diesel I’m directing it, but with a great big team. That’s the difference. The Diesel atelier is massive, we have a whole floor dedicated to denim, and scientists working on new treatments all the time.  It’s incredible to work like that. The possibilities are endless.’

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Images of the Diesel Tribute range taken at the in-store event, featuring studding, biker badges and colourful buttons

Formichetti is a champion of new media, saying that ‘young digital bloggers are the future; they’re going to take over the world. I love when new things happen. It’s shifting and we’re changing.’  A fact further supported by the campaign, which was shot entirely on an iPhone by renowned photographer Nick Knight. Formichetti gets very animated when discussing the speedy delivery of the campaign. ‘Sometimes you can do this spontaneous thing (sic), going directly to the consumer, not showing the product to the press 6 months before. It’s super quick, going straight to the digital world. And it’s exciting’ he says, before adding of the industry’s predisposition to work 6 months ahead. ‘I think if you keep trying we’ll get to a point where we can do something bigger and new for the fashion system. I don’t know what’s happening anymore, what season or what month we’re in. This has to change, don’t you think?

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Printed tees and digital moving images

Whilst this is an idea that has also been explored by Burberry (customers can order the next season Prorsum collection straight from the catwalk), I can’t see the whole of the fashion industry following suit.  Despite the instant appeal of new media, the major monthly titles as well as the dominant department stores need the 6 month lead time to place orders and create editorial content in time for the fashion season.  With Diesel, where seasons are less crucial, the concept is more of a reality.  And with his endless energy and thousands of Formichetti fans, this is just what Diesel needs to return to its position as pioneer of the denim industry.

Diesel Tribute is available now at selected stores. For more info head to www.diesel.com. The campaign (shot by Nick Knight) can be viewed on specific social media platforms including Facebook and Instagram, as well as digital installations in key stores.

Main image- the Diesel Tribute collection as it appears at the Covent Garden store.

Grooming on the go

There was a time back in early 1999, when having your nails done meant getting a French polish on your wedding day.  Then along came Nails Inc and a plethora of other brands and before you know it we’re in 2013, where nail art is the norm and people change their polish to match their outfits.  Nail colours have become sell-outs (witness Chanel’s Jade green in 2009), nail bars are ubiquitous, and bold hues, two-tone half-moons and jazzy sequinned tips are routine.  We even have the ‘statement nail’ (where one fingernail on each hand is different to the others).  And this month, sees a launch that will further revolutionise our grooming patterns.  Nicknamed fast beauty or grooming on the go, November sees the opening of not one, but two new brands that offer blow-drys and manicures in under 30 minutes, all under one chic roof.

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Cheeky Parlour in Shoreditch

The first, which launched last week, is called Cheeky Parlour and is under the same umbrella as the hugely successful members-only Soho House Group, owned by Nick Jones.  Branching out from the exclusive bracket that is currently a requirement for entry to the Houses, Cheeky is the first nail bar to offer drop-in blow-drys, manicures, cocktails and even an in-house DJ in the evenings. Open 5 days a week (from Wed-Sun), the concept is a no-appointment-needed guide to fast grooming.

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At Cheeky Parlour, polishes come in 21 colours and you get to take home the bottle

Expanding on the model of the hugely successful US Drybar salon www.thedrybar.com – which launched in 2000 & has enjoyed phenomenal success – Cheeky has created an environment where you can pop in for a cheap blow-dry and polish before a night out, or hang out with friends and enjoy grooming along with cocktails and tunes.  A manicure costs £10 (& you get to take home the bottle of varnish) with a supplement for nail art features of £1.50 per nail.  Blow-drys come in four different styles (try Pump It for volume or Ruffle My Feathers for beachy waves), plus up-do options that include plaits and a topknot, and cost £15 a pop.  Vintage furniture and a Shoreditch location ensure an air of in-the-know cool, and for social media fans the salon has a dedicated Selfie Studio complete with pro lighting and equipment, so you can instantly Instagram your look.

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Cheeky sweets and the Treatments menu (Images from: cheriecity.co.uk)

The second brand, Blow, launches on November 11th with a similar concept, only this one cleverly also offers make-up.  Opening their first outlet in Covent Garden next week, the company has aspirations to revolutionise the grooming market, with expansion into the Middle East and Russia on the horizon, and future salons planned near tube stations and schools for time-poor mums.  Led by business guru Dharmash Mistry (the entrepreneur behind Lovefilm and MyWardrobe) and former editor of Elle and Grazia, Fiona McIntosh, this brand has two hugely knowledgeable heads at its helm.

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The Luxe Blow £25

The salons are aiming to attract the high-achieving working woman and will be open 7 days a week for up to 14 hours a day, meaning you can get a file and polish before an important morning meeting or a blow-dry after your 7am visit to the gym.  There are both drop-in options and book-in appointments, and prices start at £15 for a 15 minute manicure and £25 for a 30 minute hair fix (try the City Blow for Manhattan sleek or the Luxe Blow for A-list locks, both above).  Make-up options include Party Face and Day Face, again costing £15 for 15 minutes of beauty blending.  Packages that maximise your time are available for a discount, with stylists working on your hair whilst technicians simultaneously perfect your nails, ensuring you can have all three treatments complete within 45 minutes (total cost £50).

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Multi-treatment offers at Blow

Much like nail bars have revolutionised how we treat our fingertips, this fast beauty concept will set a new precedent for grooming.  At the moment the launches are London based, but watch out for the expansion… there’ll be one popping up on your doorstep before you can say bouncy blow-dry.

Cheeky Parlour is open Wed-Sat 10am-10pm and Sun 11am-7pm. Closed Mon and Tue. 1st Floor, 64-66 Redchurch Street, Shoreditch, London, E2 7DP. Go to http://www.urcheeky.com/parlours 

Blow Covent Garden opens on November 11th at 8 Slingsby Place, St Martin’s Courtyard, London, WC2E 9AB. T: 020 7240 7987. Open Mon-Wed 7am-7pm, Thurs-Sat 7am-9pm, Sun 10am-6pm. Visit http://www.blowltd.com for more info. 

For a review of Cheeky Parlour also see: http://cheriecity.co.uk/2013/10/30/cheeky-parlour-shoreditch/

Colour & Culture at Cosmetics a la Carte

Today’s blog is about a beauty brand that has just turned 40 and, rather than letting the date quietly slip by, has spent the year marking the occasion.  Knightsbridge based Cosmetics a la Carte, has been bringing ‘colour and culture’ to our faces for four decades.  The label has seen many famous names grace its hallowed beauty halls – Princess Diana was a fan, as is Grace Jones, Elizabeth Taylor, Lady Gaga and even U2, who used their cosmetics for their tour.  Renowned for its ultra bespoke beauty range (they will mix a foundation to exactly match your skin tone), Cosmetics a la Carte was the first luxury make-up company to make all its own products. And one of the owners, Lynne Sanders even has a science degree to back up her innate talent.

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I was introduced to this brand about a year ago and am a huge fan.  Whenever I use their foundation I get compliments on my skin, and the product is so light that people really think it’s just my natural glow.  I have forgotten the amount of times I have had to correct them with the words ‘honestly, it’s my foundation’ (FYI it’s called Moisture Tint).  Furthermore, their cream Bare Blush adds just the right hint of ‘I’ve been for a walk in the country’ rouge to my cheeks

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This spring saw a commemorative exhibition that celebrated the company’s use of colour and iconic status, including the first nude lipstick bought by Princess Diana in the 1980s. Also showing were four monoliths, a collaboration with revered artist Alex Noble.  I saw these at this week’s press day and they are so stunning.  Inspired in turn by Grace Jones, Princess Diana, Lady Gaga and Kate Moss, Noble was given four iconic moments in the brand’s history and used these to create the pieces.

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‘CUTTING THE EDGE OF BEAUTY’ MONOLITH I – GRACE JONES BY ALEX NOBLE

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‘CUTTING THE EDGE OF BEAUTY’ MONOLITH II – PRINCESS DIANA BY ALEX NOBLE

The first was inspired by the midnight blue face powder worn by Grace Jones on the cover of her album Nightclubbing (the product itself was inspired by Grace asking for skin similar to the boutique’s Egyptian black cat).  The gorgeous broken pearl bust is a tribute to the late Princess Diana and her devotion to the Nude Toast lipstick.  Monolith III represents Lady Gaga in one of her early appearances on BBC breakfast news, where she wore Bubblegum gloss in a heart shape on her lips.  The final piece, and my personal favourite, references a May 2000 Vogue cover, where Kate Moss wore Candy lipstain in pink with two boldly coloured eyelids.

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‘CUTTING THE EDGE OF BEAUTY’ MONOLITH III – LADY GAGA BY ALEX NOBLE

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‘CUTTING THE EDGE OF BEAUTY’ MONOLITH IV – KATE MOSS BY ALEX NOBLE

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The May 2000 Vogue cover that inspired Monolith IV, featuring Kate Moss in Candy lipstain 

If you’re going to a Halloween party this weekend, take inspiration from these gorgeous monoliths and be creative with your make-up.  Or book in for a masterclass with the boutique’s talented artists.  Why be boring when you can be bold?

Visit Cosmetics a la Carte at 19b Motcomb St, Knightsbridge, London, SW1X 8LB. T: 020 7235 0596 www.alacartelondon.com

Exhibition curated by Ryan Lanji: http://www.ryanlanji.com. For more information on Alex Noble head to: alexnoblestudio.com.  

J. Crew lands in London

It seems this November is the month for exciting launches.  As seen on last Friday’s post, the hotly anticipated Isabel Marant for H&M collection arrives in two weeks, and in 8 days time (and counting) fashionista favourite J. Crew opens in the UK.  That’s right, the US brand beloved by Michelle Obama and led by style icon and creative director Jenna Lyons, is opening three London stores on November 8th.   The launch has already generated acres of column inches, with press features going back as far as 6 months.  That is quite some build up!  The December issue of British Vogue – which landed on my doorstep this morning – has a 30 page supplement (see above), which will only add fuel to the well stoked J. Crew fire.

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Model images from the AW13 collection show the label’s bold use of colour and print

The brand is a firm fashion favourite. For years British stylists have picked up their iconic prints and bold tailored pieces when in New York for fashion week.  Now, UK based folk can also access the supremely stylish label.  J. Crew is known for mixing geek with chic, balancing masculine cuts with feminine prints and is the master of juxtaposed layering.  A crisp white shirt under a grey marl sweater, teamed with a printed pant, bold statement necklace and a flat polished brogue is THE J. Crew look and one championed by Jenna herself.  Effortless and chic with just the right nod to seasonal trends, this is the style that fashion folk emulate.

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President and Creative Director Jenna Lyons addresses St Martins students in the J. Crew Winter 2013 lookbook

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A classic J. Crew look (sweater, printed pants, statement necklace and flats) as seen in the Winter 2013 lookbook

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Masculine Italian leather loafers are given a feminine metallic edge

The price points place the brand at the upper end of the high-street, with jumpers starting at £100 and key statement pieces costing up to several hundred pounds.  This puts them on a par, or even slightly above labels such as Whistles, Reiss and Hobbs, so not one for bargain basement Primark lovers. However, the quality is high, the pieces are divine and the whole aesthetic is unique, distinctive and oozes effortless style.  I can’t wait to add this brand to my wardrobe.

Main holding image: Cover of J. Crew Winter 2013 Issue supplement, which came with this month’s British Vogue

J. Crew stores open on November 8th. For more information go to www.jcrew.com