Somerset House – Stylitz

London Fashion Week SS15

Published on September 23, 2014September 23, 2014 by Alicja JasnikowskaLeave a comment

With the fashion crowd moving onto the final week of catwalks and the first shows in Paris about to begin, I thought it high time I not only posted a blog (apologies about the huge gap in posts – it was a summer of filming abroad) but also filled you in on what I saw at London Fashion Week this month.

My sparkly Kurt Geiger sliders have an outing at London Fashion Week SS15

Whilst the catwalk shows attract the most media attention, I also like to peruse the designer stands in the stunning Somerset House, looking closely at the collections that have just been shown and speaking to new up-and-coming designers. Despite dedicating over 3 hours to this I only managed to cover one floor this season, focusing on contemporary and emerging talent. Sadly for all shoe lovers I didn’t quite manage the accessories hall. Here is a virtual tour of the designers that stood out for me and what to expect for Spring Summer 2015 (all website details at end of page).

Flying the flag for London

First up the lovely Jean-Pierre Braganza whose SS15 show I also attended this season. A fantastic collection with his signature mix of masculine tailoring, quirky print and fabulous outerwear. Expect monochrome with a little added sparkle. A quick five min chat with the man himself revealed that he had slept a total of six hours in three nights in the lead up to the show. Ouch!

Designs from Jean-Pierre Braganza SS15 (above) and as seen on the catwalk (below)

Another favourite Fyodor Golan pulled out all the stops with neon colouring, oversized sequins and dramatic floral applique. Definitely not one for the faint-hearted, expect to see these designs on celeb fans Rita Ora and Katy Perry pronto.

The delightful Georgia Hardinge showed me around her collection for next Spring, which featured clever architectural-inspired pleating and intricate silk prints, in a particularly strong palette of cornflower blue and chartreuse. Along with five others, Georgia was chosen for this years BFC Contemporary initiative, which included creating a capsule collection for eBay to coincide with Fashion Week. Expect many more exciting collaborations ahead.

For those who like their clothing of a Scandi persuasion, the simplicity and clean lines of Swedish brand Deitas should appeal.

Voluminous shapes and luxury fabrics and prints stand out at Fitriani. I love this beautiful collection!

The prints in the Yuzzo London collection really caught my eye. Subtle and pretty, with an Eastern influence, these gorgeous pieces would work well in any wardrobe.

Next up is Zoe Jordan, also chosen for this years BFC Contemporary Initiative. Her use of abstract print, geometric lines and cracked leather makes for a feminine look with an urban edge. This collection was inspired by Berlin and her printed leather dress (as seen below) was spotted on Poppy Delevigne that same week.

Next the urban sport luxe designs of Jamie Wei Huang caught my eye. I was meant to attend this show but sadly couldn’t make it. The unusual use of colour and texture and the quirky menswear detailing make this collection really stand out for me.

A step further into the world of quirky is New York brand Betina. Starting off as a luxury T-shirt line, the label has since expanded and was recently named as one to watch by vogue.com. Combining a Philappino heritage and US sports influences this collection is a riot of clashing textures, contrasting fabrics and embellishment. Cute!

On to Emerging Talent and the clean lines, boxy silhouettes and succinct colour scheme of label Heohwan Simulation caught my eye.

Another emerging designer with an eye for texture is Ming Pin Tien. The hand-knotted tassles that adorn the garments lift the simple shapes out of the ordinary. And I just adore these crazy furry flats. Fab, fun and sure to get a lot of attention.

And just when I thought London Fashion Week had become all clean lines and commercial shapes, I came across the surreal kitsch designs of Yang Du. The Chinese born, London based designer sure knows how to put the fun into fashion. She may divide a room with her bold designs, but with Susie Bubble as a fan she’ll go far. & why the hell not add some colour to your life. Or an animal backpack…

http://www.jeanpierrebraganza.com; http://www.fyodorgolan.co.uk; http://www.georgiahardinge.co.uk; http://www.deitas.com; http://www.fitriani.com; http://www.yuzzo-zhou.com; http://www.zoe-jordan.com; http://www.jamieweihuang.com; http://www.betina-ny.com; http://www.heohwansimulation.com; http://www.mingpintien.com; http://www.yangdu-duyang.com;

On your Marks

Published on November 14, 2013November 14, 2013 by Alicja JasnikowskaLeave a comment

It’s press day time again – the biannual month where all the brands, from River Island to Ralph Lauren, present their next season collections to the press. So, just when I have finally succumbed to a coat and scarf, I am now spending my days looking at next Spring’s sunglasses, swimsuits and tiny shorts. Such is the bizarre nature of the fashion industry.

Most press days tend to fall on a Wednesday or Thursday, which means there can be up to 20 different brands showing in one day, all at different venues across London. Clearly you have to be selective. Yesterday I managed only a handful, which ranged from Jaeger’s new offerings shown at the gorgeous Somerset House to Marks and Spencer’s at One Marylebone. I also popped by Flax PR and Reiss who each presented lovely garments for next spring (vintage clothing and homeware by Cabbages & Roses from the former, and feather prints, pistachio green and minimal white suiting from the later).

The one that really caught my eye yesterday however was Marks & Spencer. I have a huge affinity for the store. I fondly remember buying their prawn and mayonnaise sandwiches as a teenage treat on a busy Saturday shopping with my friends. Equally, my gran, who I love dearly, would give us a voucher for the store every year as our birthday gift. Whilst I possibly would have preferred one for Miss Selfridge or Next at the time, that paper voucher (this was before the current card vouchers) was carefully spent and much deliberated upon.

So to yesterday’s press day, which I think was one of the best I have seen from the brand. Not only was the venue stunning but the clothes were organised into clearly defined (and very photogenic) trend groups, which ranged from the impactful White Out to the pastel Pretty Things. Other trends included Worldwide (prints and tribal influences), Paint Box (bold brights) and 90s Luxe (oversized layers of Celine inspired minimalism). So those are the themes that M&S is predicting for next season. I loved it and I really hope that the collection is as well received by the consumer next February as it was by the press this week. Check out the pictures below and let me know your thoughts…

Trend 1 at Marks & Spencer SS14 Press Day – White Out

Trend 2 at Marks & Spencer – Worldwide (read prints and tribal) – I love this bird print bomber!

Trend 3 at Marks & Spencer – Pretty things

I love this white lace midi dress and the sheer panelled pencil skirt

M&S’s take on the Victoria Beckham oversized drop-waist dress

Bold colours dominate Trend 4 – Paintbox. The pink leather T-shirt is a stand-out piece for me.

Trend 5 – 90s Luxe is a key theme across lots of brands for SS14

The clothes seen above will not be available until next Spring. This is only a preview to give you a taste of what is to come. To shop the current collection, including the fabulous Best of British range, go to www.marksandspencer.com

London Fashion Week SS14 at Somerset House

Published on September 17, 2013September 17, 2013 by Alicja JasnikowskaLeave a comment

Yesterday I finally made it down to Somerset House to check out the London Fashion Week SS14 showrooms. The Courtyard houses the main tents where models take to the catwalk in the designers visions for Spring 2014. Yes, just as normal folk are beginning to pull on jumpers and dust off their coats, the fashion folk are projecting what will be the hottest trends when the sun reappears sometime around March. Here is a summary of what I saw and what I loved.

London Fashion Week SS14 New Gen entrance hall

First stop was the Topshop sponsored New Generation hall where the next big things in fashion tout their wares. My favourite shoe designer of the moment, Sophia Webster, showed off a display of her signature candy coloured, kooky heels, predicting bold colours and clever heel detailing for next spring. Oh and jelly heels! My particular fave is the ‘Killer’ stiletto, surely the shoe Bridget Fonda’s rival should have worn in Single White Female…

Shoes, such pretty, pretty shoes by Sophia Webster for SS14

A lot of the New Gen hall was empty as catwalk collections by the likes of J. JS Lee and Simone Rocha hadn’t made it to the showrooms yet, so I headed upstairs to the Ready to Wear Emerging and Contemporary collections.

First stop was Zoe Jordan who showed at the early hour of 9am on Saturday morning, and put out a collection inspired by a grown up skater girl. Expect sports influenced pieces such as white punched leather tees married with printed silk dresses, in a palette of white mixed with bold hues.

Fresh from the catwalk: Zoe Jordan’s ‘Pretty Vandals’ SS14 collection

Christopher Raeburn’s collection also had an overlying sportswear feel (a trend that refuses to go away) with high-tech fabrics worked into chic printed separates.

Christopher Raeburn’s SS14 vision

Georgia Hardinge has this year decided to focus on her buyers and will be presenting a show in Shanghai next week, but for London she was on hand to explain her pretty printed silk dresses and clever pleat inserts. Collaborating with a specialist, she has created intricate origami shapes hidden within her box pleat skirts and tops. Beautiful!

The designer herself, Georgia Hardinge wearing a pleated piece from her SS14 collection

Another brand that caught my eye was Paper London, which featured gorgeous laser cut jackets and wide sculptural garments in a tight palette of white, red and navy.

Paper London’s intricate cut-outs for SS14

Onto emerging talent where Jane Bowler’s hand-cut leather and PVC plastic creations were drawing attention. Strong editorial garments, plus amazing jewellery and reworked trucker caps means this brand will be a winner with the streetwear and music crowd.

Hand cut leather and PVC plastic pieces from Jane Bowler SS14

Finally I loved the pleat work, colour combinations and printwork of Heohwan Simulation’s SS14, who showed off-schedule on Day 1 of London Fashion week. Definitely one to watch…

Monochrome and yellow at Heohwan Simulation SS14

In the afternoon I managed to catch a presentation at the stunning Freemasons’ Hall showcasing the work of Natasha Zinko – a cute floral stage and pretty ethereal vibe in a succinct collection.

Natasha Zinko SS14

I was supposed to attend the dramatic Pam Hogg show at 5pm, but after queuing for over 30 minutes with what felt like half of London my tired feet got the better of me and I decided to give it a miss. I hear it was quite the crazy with magpie hats and more refined silhouettes mixing with the usual latex catsuits.

London Fashion Week SS14 draws to a close today and the crowds of fashionistas in towering heels will move onto Milan for the next round of shows. Although not until they have partied at tonight’s closing parties, put on by the likes of Harper’s Bazaar and Dazed and Confused. When in Rome…

London Fashion Week SS14 runs from 13-17 September 2013 http://www.londonfashionweek.co.uk/ at Somerset House

For further details of featured designers: www.sophiawebster.co.uk; www.zoe-jordan.com; www.christopherraeburn.co.uk; www.georgiahardinge.co.uk; www.paperlondon.com; www.janebowler.co.uk; www.heohwansimulation.com; www.natashazinko.com.

Hitchcock heroines

Published on July 10, 2013 by Alicja JasnikowskaLeave a comment

Today sees the opening of ‘I Only Want You to Love Me’, a retrospective of the work of London born fashion photographer Miles Aldridge. Launched to coincide with the book of the same name, the exhibition highlights Aldridge’s bold use of colour and glossy yet dark images of women. Part Hitchcock heroine, part airbrushed Vogue model, Aldridge references both cinema and photography, citing film director David Lynch and fashion photographer Richard Avedon as influences.

I am a huge fan of these surreal, almost plastic looking shots, and the large scale on display is an assault on the senses. Aldridge’s female models – and he only really shoots women – often appear troubled, vacant or distressed, and there is a clear cynicism towards the perfect Stepford wife imagery that dominates advertising. This he feels, is something most people can connect with – “I think that’s why my work is collected and enjoyed,” he said. “It’s not black and white though – we don’t exist within an evil empire. It’s complicated. The world is a strange and troubling place and we live in the middle of it.” Stunning, glossy images that belie a deeper, darker message, this is thought-provoking fashion photography at its best.

Miles Aldridge – The Rooms, 2011

Miles Aldridge – Chromo Thriller, 2012

Miles Aldridge: I Only Want You to Love me runs from 10th July – 29th September 2013 at Somerset House
http://www.somersethouse.org.uk/visual-arts/miles-aldridge-i-only-want-you-to-love-me

Bold Blumenfeld

Published on June 17, 2013 by Alicja JasnikowskaLeave a comment

This Monday’s musings are of an arty disposition. Last week I popped along to Somerset House to check out Erwin Blumenfeld’s fashion photography exhibition. These images are simply stunning & despite being more than 50 years old, feel so modern the only thing giving away their age is the clothing.

Born in Berlin & from humble beginnings, Blumenfeld scaled the heights of fashion fame to become a leading contributor to US Vogue & Harper’s Bazaar in the 40s & 50s. The techniques displayed in these photographs could be easily created on Photoshop today, but the marvel is this was a time of film not digital, & Blumenfeld utilised frosted screens, clever lighting & even water to create some of the burnt-out, blurred & striated shots. You can see the inspiration of Man Ray in his work, whilst other images reference his colleague Cecil Beaton, both more famous but none more talented.

Keep an eye out for the image of Grace Kelly, the Chesterfield cigarette campaign (which feels almost naughty in this era of smoke-free advertising) & the iconic beauty image shown above. A superb & unique exhibition, I defy anyone of an arty inclination not to come away feeling truly inspired. & best of all it’s totally free…

Until September 1st, http://www.somersethouse.org.uk